Climbing Through History at Newcastle Castle
As part of this year’s Heritage Open Days, when attractions across the region throw open their doors for free, we decided it was high time to pay a visit to Newcastle Castle. Despite living in the North East for most of my life, and passing the castle countless times, I had never actually stepped inside. It felt like a gap that needed filling.
Panoramic view from the roof of Newcastle Castle Keep, looking out across the River Tyne, the Tyne Bridge, the Millennium Bridge, and the Sage Gateshead.
Getting there
Normally, the X21 or X12 bus takes us directly into Newcastle. But pressed for time, we opted to drive. The journey was a straightforward 35 minutes, and we discovered that the Dean Street multi-storey is ideally placed for the castle, just a ten-minute walk away. A note for future visitors: the castle is fascinating but not ideal if you have mobility challenges. There are many, many steps to tackle, from the very start.
For comparison, some of our favourite free attractions in Durham city centre, like Palace Green or Crook Hall Gardens, are a little gentler on the legs, though no less steeped in history.
First impressions – The Black Gate
You begin your visit through the Black Gate, once the fortified entrance to the medieval stronghold. Stairs (or a small lift) take you up to the ticket office and gift shop, before another short climb brings you to a compact museum. Here the castle’s long history is neatly explained, from its Roman origins guarding the Pons Aelius bridge across the Tyne, through Norman expansion under Henry II, and on to the changing fortunes of later centuries.
Inside the Black Gate at Newcastle Castle, with its striking Norman arches and centuries-old stonework.
The museum is well pitched for families, with plenty of dressing-up outfits and games to occupy younger visitors. The steady buzz of children in helmets and cloaks added a sense of fun to what might otherwise be a serious collection of stonework and display boards. It reminded me a little of the hands-on activities at the Oriental Museum in Durham, which is another of our Durham attractions for families.
Crossing the tracks
One of the most curious features of Newcastle Castle is that the railway line cuts right through it. In Victorian times, progress took precedence over preservation, and so the Castle Garth was split in two. To move from the Black Gate to the Castle Keep, you walk beneath the arches of the railway, trains rattling overhead. It feels like a clash of centuries, medieval walls on either side, 19th-century iron and steam above.
The Castle Keep – not for the faint-hearted
There is no lift in the Castle Keep. Instead, a steep climb leads up to the doorway, followed by more than 100 further steps spiralling ever upwards. It is a challenge, but worth it. Each level opens into atmospheric chambers: the Great Hall, tiny chapels, and echoing passageways. Narrow staircases twist you ever higher until you finally emerge on the roof.
The reward is spectacular: sweeping views across Newcastle and Gateshead, the Tyne Bridge gleaming, the spires of St Nicholas Cathedral close by, and the river bending away towards the sea. Standing on top of the keep, you can easily imagine sentries centuries ago scanning the horizon for approaching armies.
A sign on the steep stairs inside Newcastle Castle Keep - a reminder of the challenge knights once faced in full armour.
Final thoughts
Though it might not be the easiest site to explore, Newcastle Castle is a rewarding visit. Its layers of history; Roman, Norman, medieval, Victorian are all written into its stones. The climb is steep, but the views are unforgettable. We left a little breathless, but grateful that this familiar landmark finally revealed its secrets to us.
And perhaps next time, we’ll take the bus and save ourselves the parking! Meanwhile, if you’re looking for more heritage days out, you’ll find plenty of inspiration in our guides to Durham museums and other hidden gems in Durham city
Moira and her husband Adam have been Durham Pointers for nine years. They enjoy exploring days out across the region, sometimes with their wider family, sometimes just the two of them - always on the lookout for new corners of County Durham, Teesside, and North Yorkshire to share.
